How Do I Choose the Right Kind of Flour?

Susan from Olives and Figs Chronicles recently asked me how to choose the right flour, and I gave a short answer on the fan page. Here I expand on that advice so you can better understand the differences and choose the best flour for whatever you’re baking.

In short: the finer and more tender you want your baked goods to be, the softer (lower-gluten) and finer-milled the flour should be. High-protein bread flour creates a hearty, chewy crumb; low-protein cake or pastry flour produces tender, delicate results. All-purpose is a middle ground that works reasonably well for many recipes, but when I want a very fine, even crumb I reach for cake flour.

Now let’s break it down in more detail.

Introducing the Wheat Berry

Unless you mill your own, the least processed form of wheat you’ll commonly find is the wheat berry: the whole kernel minus the outer hull. It contains three parts—the bran, the germ and the endosperm. The endosperm is mostly starch and provides the bulk of what we call flour.

The bran is the outer coating and appears as small flakes when milled. It provides fiber, vitamins and minerals but can interfere with gluten development, so whole-grain breads are often denser than white breads.

The germ is the seed embryo and is rich in nutrients and oils. Those oils can go rancid, so whole wheat flour or wheat germ keeps best chilled.

If you find wheat berries at a health food store, try cooking them: they’re pleasantly nutty and chewy as a salad base or hot cereal.

What Kinds of Wheat Are There?

Wheat is classified into several classes based on growing region and kernel characteristics. Here are the common U.S. classes:

1. Hard Red Winter Wheat – Widely grown in the Great Plains; used for yeasted breads and rolls.
2. Hard Red Spring Wheat – Grown in northern states; high protein and excellent for baking.
3. Soft Red Winter Wheat – Grown chiefly in the eastern U.S.; lower protein, used for cakes, crackers and pastries.
4. Durum Wheat – The hardest wheat, used for pasta.
5. Hard White Wheat – Similar to hard red but milder and sweeter in flavor; used for yeasted products.
6. Soft White Wheat – Like soft red wheat, used for non-yeasted baked goods and pastries.

What is the Difference Between Hard and Soft Wheat?

The main difference is protein content. Hard wheats have higher protein, which yields more gluten when mixed with liquid. Gluten gives dough its elasticity and structure. Soft wheats have less protein and produce more tender baked goods.

Note for people with celiac disease or gluten intolerance: gliadin (one of the gluten proteins) is present throughout the wheat berry, so all wheat flours must be avoided.

What Kinds of Flour Are There?

Wheat flours are categorized mainly by protein level, typically ranging from about 5% to 15%. Lower protein flours produce tender cakes and pastries; higher protein flours give chew and structure desirable in breads.

Flour Type	Protein Range
Cake flour	5–8%
Pastry flour	8–9%
Self-rising (AP + leavening + salt)	9–11%
All-purpose	9–12%
Bread flour	12–13%
Whole wheat	~14%
High-gluten	14–15%

The exact protein content varies by brand, but this table gives a useful guide when choosing flour for a specific result.

What About Bleached Flour?

Bleaching alters and slightly weakens the proteins in flour, producing a more tender crumb—especially desirable in cake and cookie recipes. The difference between bleached and unbleached flour is subtle; many bakers prefer unbleached for personal or ingredient-preference reasons, while others choose bleached when a very soft texture is desired.

Can I Substitute One Flour for Another?

Yes, within reason. Substituting flours with similar protein levels usually works fine. For example, low-protein all-purpose or White Lily can substitute for pastry flour. You can swap bleached and unbleached, knowing that bleached will give slightly more tender results.

If you need to increase protein—say, for bagels or pizza dough—you can add a small amount of vital wheat gluten to your flour to boost chewiness. Conversely, you can use lower-protein flour for tender pastries.

How Can I Substitute All-Purpose Flour for Cake Flour?

Ask whether the substitution is worth it for your recipe. If you decide to proceed, one simple method: measure 1 cup of all-purpose flour, remove 2 tablespoons of flour, and replace those 2 tablespoons with 2 tablespoons of cornstarch. This reduces protein and increases starch, approximating cake flour. If you weigh ingredients, using slightly less all-purpose by weight (for example 4 oz instead of 4.5 oz per cup) can also help.

If Whole Wheat Flour is High in Protein, Why Doesn’t My Whole Wheat Bread Rise Very High?

Whole wheat contains the bran, which interrupts gluten strands and limits stretch. Think of bran flakes as tiny razors that cut through gluten, preventing full expansion. To improve rise, many bakers blend whole wheat with white bread flour or add extra gluten (vital wheat gluten) to increase overall gluten strength while retaining whole-wheat flavor and nutrition.

What’s the Deal with Self-Rising Flour? Can I Make My Own?

Self-rising flour is all-purpose flour with baking powder and salt already mixed in. To make an approximate homemade version, whisk together 1 cup (about 4–4.5 oz) all-purpose flour with 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder and 1/2 teaspoon salt. For less rise, use 1 teaspoon baking powder per cup and 1/4 teaspoon salt.

Are There Any General Substitution Rules for Flour?

Use what the recipe calls for when possible. If you must substitute, stay close in protein content. General 1:1 substitutions: cake flour ≈ pastry flour; pastry flour ≈ low-protein all-purpose (e.g., White Lily); all-purpose ≈ bread flour (adjust liquids slightly); bread flour ≈ high-gluten flour. If you frequently need different results, consider stocking a few types of flour.

What’s the Best Gluten-Free Flour to Use?

I’m not a gluten-free baking expert, but there are many excellent blends and resources dedicated to gluten-free baking. If you need guidance for medical reasons, seek a gluten-free baking specialist or trusted resource that focuses specifically on GF flours and methods.

Anything Else?

If there’s something I missed or you’d like a gluten-free primer, let me know. I can share more tips, conversions and ideas based on what you bake most often. Thanks for reading, and happy baking!